THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO BUYING A MOTHERBOARD

3 Motherboard Recommendations

Power on a Budget: ECS AMD690GM-M2
You rarely find the most exciting and up-to-date components for bargain-basement prices, and that goes for motherboards, too. But in terms of basic features, and with a $54.99 price (after a $10 mail-in rebate), the AMD690GM-M2 from ECS is a good deal. Capable of housing AMD's current powerful AM2 processors, supporting up to 16GB of RAM, and with a PCI Express x16 slot for a 3D-crunching graphics card, it offers more up-to-date options than many budget models. If integrated graphics are all you need, the onboard AMD 690 chip is among the best you'll find. The board even supplies integrated VGA and DVI ports.
Elitegroup Computer Systems

The Entertainer: Gigabyte GA-MA69GM-S2H
If you're looking to build a Media Center-style machine and want to make sure you don't miss anything, the $89 Gigabyte GA-MA69GM-S2H might be the Socket AM2 board for you. In addition to a VGA port for your monitor, it has optical S/PDIF in and out ports, eight-channel integrated sound, and a High-Definition Multimedia Interface (HDMI) connector for high-definition (HD) video. If you want to upgrade your video later, you get a PCIe x16 slot, as well as a PCIe x4 slot and two PCI slots. The four SATA hard drive connections enable you to add enough drives to have plenty of room for recording (and watching) HDTV right away. Get the right case, and the MicroATX form factor could allow you to keep your computer right next to the television.
Gigabyte Technology

Game Winner: Asus Striker Extreme
Enthusiasts with a taste for Supreme Commander or World of Warcraft frequently push their PCs to the limits, and the Asus Striker Extreme is a great tool for that. It supports up to 8GB of DDR 800 RAM, three PCIe x16 cards (allowing for two graphics cards and a physics-acceleration card for top 3D performance), and Intel's newest, most powerful CPUs. It also features eight-channel audio, a rear-panel LCD screen for diagnosing errors, and enhanced overclocking features. At $349.99, though, the faint of heart (or wallet) need not apply. Buy Now
Asustek Computer

INSTALLING MOBO, CPU & MEMORY

Author: Eric Lexington
1. Before you begin…
First thing is first, make sure that you have everything you need to get started. What good is it to get started only to find you don’t have everything necessary? This can take quite a bit of time, but is well worth the effort. Once you have inventoried everything it is time to get started! In addition to all of your parts, you will need plenty of working space and two to three hours to focus on the task at hand. Be sure to remember that carpet, and/or static is your worst enemy. The static electricity can fry your components and sometimes void any warranties you may have (be sure to check those warranties as well...sometimes you just get bad components). A good accessory to have with you is an antistatic wrist strap – they are very inexpensive and can often be found at your local computer parts store for six dollar or less. A floor free of carpet is your best place to build. Get your screw drivers, anti-static strap (strap it on) and download the latest component drivers from the vendors’ websites and burn them to CD – often times the drivers that come with your product will be several versions out of date – this can help by reducing stress later on.

2. Installing the Mobo (motherboard)
Now we can begin with the good stuff: installing your mobo. Take the motherboard out of the anti-static packaging and place it on top of the same bag. Be careful to avoid creating any potentially “fatal” static electricity. Now, install the CPU, heat sink and memory modules. Do this before you screw in the motherboard. Since each motherboard is different, be sure to check your user manual as it will help guide you during the installation process. First, lift the lever on the processor socket so you can install the CPU. Carefully line up the pins and place the chip in its socket; do not force it, it will not fit unless it is orientated properly. An arrow or a missing pin on one corner of the chip will show you how to line things up. Lower the lever and lock the CPU into place.

Next, follow the manufacturer's directions to install the heat sink and the fan that will cool the processor. If you bought an OEM CPU and a separate heat sink, you may need to spread a thin layer of the thermal compound that came with the heat sink over the chip to ensure proper transfer of heat (some come with thermal compound already applied). Attaching the clip that holds the heat sink in place may require a fair amount of force. Plug the fan's power connector into the proper connector on the motherboard.

TIP: Choose the processor first: With the release of Intel’s new Conroe processors Intel has surpassed AMD as the leader in graphics processing. Not only that, they have also managed to be more energy efficient at it. Check the latest reviews...you will find this is not hype. Make sure you take extra time to choose the right processor – it is definitely the most important decision you will make.

TIP: Choose the motherboard after selecting the processor: Make sure, when selecting your CPU, that your processor is compatible with your motherboard. This is indicated by the “socket” of your process – check the detailed specs and you will find what processors your motherboard supports. Some only support AMD; while others only support Intel and certain types within each so be CERTAIN. Often times you can get both your process and your motherboard bundled – which means that your retailer has taken the time to ensure that both the mobo and processor are compatible – it is also a way to save a few bucks – not to mention saving time on the install. Socket A, Socket 939, and Socket 940 are designed to work with Athlon processors, while Socket 478 and the new LGA socket 775 are for Intel CPUs. The system chip set (the chips that pass data between the peripherals and the CPU) is the other component that differs among motherboards; it determines which integrated components (graphics, sound, Ethernet, etc.) will be included. I wouldn’t count on using your integrated chipset to run your games, but they are okay with the small things.

Eric owns Computer Secrets which helps others learn about how to build a computer.

THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO BUYING A MOTHERBOARD

By Matthew Murray

Welcome to Motherboards 101: Take our fast course in shopping for the most critical component in your PC.

Your CPU and RAM give your PC power, your video card keeps it gaming late into the night, and that PC Ethernet jack is its lifeline to the world—but it's your PC's motherboard that brings everything together. When you want to buy a new one, whether as part of a full system upgrade or just to acquire some snazzy new jacks or abilities, the range of choices can be overwhelming.

The first step is figuring out the basics: What features do you need? And how much are you willing to spend? While we can't answer these questions for you, this guide will help demystify the myriad mysterious pieces of the misunderstood motherboard, and give you the tools you need to find the one best suited for you and your PC. Once you're up to speed, check out our top board recommendations, as well as "Surf Boards" (PDF chart) for a survey of some of the latest models on the market.

COMPUTER MOTHERBOARD GUIDE

Author: Peter Stewart
The heart of any computer is the motherboard. It is that big board inside the computer that everything is connected to. It performs the role of traffic lights and policemen, directing flows of information to where they are needed, when they are needed.

Choosing the right motherboard does not have to be a huge issue, even though there is a lot to consider. I will start off with the most major parts and move onto the the things that are less important or non-essential.

Firstly is the socket type.

The socket is the place where the processor (CPU) connects to the motherboard. There is no compatiblility between sockets, so it has to be the right one. The socket connection needs to match the connection of the processor you have or the one you intend to buy for the computer.

Most older Intel Pentium 4s utilise socket 478. Newer ones use socket 775. AMD chips utilised socket A for a long time, but now the AMD Athlon 64 series and Semprons use socket 939. Just check with someone as to what yours or your intended one will have.

Your choice of chip will have a lot to do with your needs, but choosing one with an up to date socket type will ensure slightly longer motherboard life as you can upgrade the chip for a while.

Second is the memory type

DDR is the RAM of choice for most systems, but some newer systems, which includes all Pentiums with socket 775 use DDR2. These two kinds are not interchangable and have a different number of pins. Both DDR and DDR2 come in different speed ratings measured in MHz. DDR has a usual 400MHz denoted as DDR400 or PC3200, while DDR2 can go a little higher and comes in slightly faster speeds. Just make it match what the board needs.

Third is expansion slots

The expansion slots are the places where you put extra cards onto the motherboard, like graphics cards, extra sound card or a wireless internet card. The old standard is a PCI slot and these are appropriate for most expansion cards, excepts new graphics cards.

The most simple of graphics cards are sometimes available for PCI slots, but not too many. More common are AGP cards and the newer PCI express (PCIe) cards. AGP slots come in speed variants up to 8x, make sure the slot matches your card. PCI and PCIe are incompatible, so don't be confused by that. The PCIe slots are much longer and have a securing latch. If you want an SLI graphics card setup with two PCIe cards with SLI attached together, make sure the motherboard specifically states that it supports SLI.

Fourth is hard drive and optical drive connections

Two kinds are available, IDE and SATA, IDE is older with a thick cable and SATA is newer with a thinner cable. SATA capability is usually an add-on, you can see a dedicated chip on the motherboard. IDE is being phased out, but is still used for many drives and all optical devices like DVD and CD drives. IDE has speeds of ATA66, ATA100 and ATA133, SATA has speeds of 150Mbps and 300Mbps the latter sometimes referred to as SATA2. Make sure your board supports as much or more than you intend to install.

Fifth is the extras

The number of extras available on motherboard has increased greatly and so has the quality of the extras. Things to be expected are USB 2.0, a sound card and network slot. Other things which it may or may not have are firewire and extra USB slots.

So with all that in mind you should be in good stead to make a good decision on your purchase. Happy shopping.

Roundup
Socket type - A, 478, 775, 939
Memory (RAM) - DDR, DDR2
Expansion slots - PCI and one of AGP or PCIe
ATA - ATA66, 100 or 133. SATA or SATA2
Extras - USB, network and sound card (expected), firewire, extra USB, extra SATA slots (optional but becoming more common)

Peter Stewart is a computer enthusiast, his interest in computers and focus on practical down to earth advice inspired his two websites.
http://computer-buying-guide.com - Practical buying tips
http://computer-reviews.net - Fair and honest reviews and opinions

CHOOSING THE RIGHT MOTHERBOARD FOR YOU

Author: Sezer Bozkurt
The motherboard is the heart of any computer. It is that big flat board inside the computer that everything is connected to. It performs the role directing information and connecting components. A motherboard is often overlooked when choosing components. This is a scary thought as the motherboard determines system performance as much as every other component.
Choosing the right motherboard does not have to be a problem, even though there is a lot to consider. We will start off with the larger parts and move onto the things that are less essential.
Firstly is the socket type. The socket is where the processor (CPU) connects to the motherboard. There is no compatiblility between sockets, so it has to be the right one. The socket connection needs to match the connection of the processor you have or the one you intend to buy for the computer.
Most older Intel Pentium 4s utilize socket 478. Newer ones use socket 775. AMD chips utilised socket A for a long time, but now the AMD Athlon 64 series and Semprons use socket 939. Just check with someone as to what yours or your intended one will have.
Your choice of chip will have a lot to do with your needs, but choosing one with an up to date socket type will ensure slightly longer motherboard life as you can upgrade the chip for a while.
DDR is the RAM of choice for most systems, but some newer systems, which includes all Pentiums with socket 775 use DDR2. These two kinds are not interchangable and have a different number of pins. Both DDR and DDR2 come in different speed ratings measured in MHz. DDR has a usual 400MHz denoted as DDR400 or PC3200, while DDR2 can go a little higher and comes in slightly faster speeds. Just make it match what the board needs.
A motherboard must be chosen carefully, to both match all the other components and fit in the case you choose. A little bit of research before you buy will save a lot of hassle later on.

For more great technology related articles and reviews visit Technology Slice

INSTALLING THE MOTHERBOARD ... STEP 8 OF 21 IN BUILDING YOUR OWN COMPUTER.

Author: Tired Dad Of Four
If you’ve been following along then by now the CPU, fan and memory should already be installed onto the motherboard. Installing the whole setup as one piece is tricky but very doable. REMEMBER to take your time. Motherboards, especially those with extra weight included, crack easily if dropped.

Start by locating the holes on the motherboard and the holes on the case or motherboard mounting plate. I find it is easier to hold the board just above the mounting plate and see how all the holes are going to line up. Move any components out of the way if you have to. If it looks OK visually then you should be alright.

Screw the metal spacers into the holes in the case or mounting plate that lined up with the holes on the motherboard. Tighten them by hand in most cases or use a small wrench (usually a 3/16 socket). If you are using snap-in spacers simply push them through the back of the case until they click into place.

Now slide the motherboard into the case. Make sure everything lines up. If you have a case with a detachable motherboard mounting plate, simply place the board over the previously placed spacer screws on the plate, and make sure they all line up with holes through the motherboard. As you do this, you will need to make sure that the Input/Output (I/O) connectors face backwards and properly align and go through the holes in the back of the case. Some cases have a flimsy removable plate in this back area that allow you to poke out the holes you need. When this step is complete, you should have a motherboard sitting in your case, with everything aligned and the I/O connectors should be sticking out of the holes through the back of the case without being twisted or crimped.

Now go ahead and tighten the board down…gently. Tighten the screws down by hand first as mentioned earlier, finish them with a screwdriver. Make sure you do not tighten them too much. Just make them snug so that the board doesn't wiggle around in the case. If you were installing the board to a removable mounting plate, install the motherboard mounting plate back into the case.

Chuck Lunsford is an owner and developer of CCSPartner.com. He offers advice on how to get design and build your own personal computer. Visit his website and learn more about designing a computer system for your own personal or private use.